Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee Factory Audio Component Removal

• The radio/vent trim bezel is held in place with 4 spring clips. With a large flat instrument (a 3″ plastic spackle instrument works nice), gently pry on every vertical aspect and thoroughly pull the bezel out just a little at a time till it’s free. The crimson areas within the heart image are the felt-lined receptacles that the bezel spring clips slot in to, which exhibits the overall space of the place to pry when eradicating the bezel.
• The radio is secured with 4 phillips screws, one in every nook.
• Slide the radio straight out and take away the wiring harnesse(s), antenna connector, and CD changer connector (if outfitted). 1999-2001 fashions might have an extra single wire connector for the PCI connection and in addition a floor wire connection. Note that on the brand new 2002 and up fashions the antenna is locked onto its connector on the again of the radio. The outdoors collar of the antenna connector have to be slid again to be able to launch the cable.

AM/FM/Cassette/CD Radio that includes the brand new 22-pin connector (12-pin socket plus a 10-pin socket) and a brand new type locking antenna connector. The change was made beginning with the 2002 mannequin 12 months, changing the older type twin 7-pin connectors. With a particular wiring harness, the 2002 and later mannequin radios will be tailored to suit 1999-2001 WJ’s.

Infinity GoldTM amplifier

• Located underneath the rear passenger-side seat, removing of the Infinity amplifier is just about self-explanatory. Four nuts to take away, and two wire harnesses to unplug. The picture at far proper exhibits the easy circuit board of the Amp, the one part contained in the unit.
  

  Dash audio system

  2.5″ tweeters

The sprint tweeters are situated underneath the highest instrument panel cowl

• With a large flat instrument (3″ plastic putty knife or related, as proven in higher left picture), gently pry the sprint trim panel upwards beginning at both finish. You can then get your fingers underneath the lip and elevate it up, working your strategy to the alternative finish. The trim is held in place by 4 spring clips. There aren’t any elements or wires hooked up to the trim cowl.
• The tweeters are held in place by two #2 phillips screws with 7mm hex heads. A 7mm open finish wrench works greatest, or you need to use a really brief or right-angled screwdriver.

Tweeter mounting specs:

• Speaker opening: 3-3/4″ x 2-3/4+”
• Speaker opening depth: 1-3/4″
• Factory speaker thickness: 1-3/8″
• Factory speaker diameter: 2-1/2″
• Distance between screws: 3-11/32″
• Factory speaker half #: 56038411AC

Front door audio system

Door panel removing:

• Remove the three door panel screws (above left, first picture):1. Phillips head, situated contained in the pull-handle pocket tray.2. Torx screw, situated behind the chrome door deal with. This can also be known as a “nutsert” and requires a Torx T-25 bit. The opening to entry the screw could be very small so a screwdriver-style T-25 works greatest.3. Phillips head screw, situated on the higher proper prime space (by the mirror bezel). It is roofed by a spherical plastic trim plug that must be popped out (a small flat screwdriver works greatest for this).
• Using a trim removing instrument (Miller instrument # C-4829 or related), detach every of the ten plastic trim panel fasteners. Lift door panel upward and out to separate it from the door. The easiest method I’ve discovered is to make use of a plastic putty knife or related instrument to pry one of many backside decrease fasteners unfastened. Once that’s carried out you’ll be able to attain beneath along with your fingers and pull the door trim off by hand, slowly working across the edges to pop the remainder of the fasteners unfastened as you go alongside.
• While holding the unfastened trim panel in place, take away each of the metallic actuator rods. They are secured with yellow snap-on plastic retainer clips that have to be pried away from the aspect of the metallic rod. Lift the rods straight up and out of their sockets.
• Unhook the wiring connectors. One for the mirror, and the massive white most important connector (for energy locks/home windows). Vehicles with the day/night time mirrors could have an extra 2-pin harness on the drivers aspect to unplug. The connector ends have a tab on one aspect that must be pushed in to disengage them.
• The 6″x9″ speaker is hooked up with 4 phillips screws. Remove after which disconnect the speaker wire harness.

Front speaker mounting specs:

• Speaker cut-out opening: 8-1/2″ x 5-3/4″
• Speaker opening depth (to glass): 2-7/8″
• Factory speaker mounting depth: 2-11/16″
• Factory speaker thickness: 3-5/16″
• Factory speaker dimension: 9-1/8″ x 6-5/16″
• Distance between screws: 6-9/16″ & 4-5/8″
• Factory speaker half # (Infinity): 56038656AA

Rear door audio system

Door panel removing:

•  Remove the two door panel screws (above left, first picture):1. Phillips head, situated contained in the pull-handle pocket tray.2. Torx screw, situated behind the chrome door deal with. This can also be known as a “nutsert” and requires a Torx T-25 bit. The opening to entry the screw could be very small so a screwdriver-style T-25 works greatest.
• Using a trim removing instrument (half # C-4829 or related), detach the ten plastic trim panel fasteners. Lift door panel upward and out to separate it from the door. You may also use a plastic putty knife or related instrument to pry one of many decrease fasteners unfastened. Once that’s carried out you’ll be able to pull the door trim off by hand, slowly working across the edge to pop the remainder of the fasteners unfastened as you go alongside.
• While holding the unfastened trim panel in place, take away each of the metallic actuator rods. They are secured with yellow snap-on plastic retainer clips that have to be pried away from the aspect of the metallic rod. Lift the rods straight up and out of their sockets.
• Unhook the wiring connectors. One for mirror (if electrical), and the massive white most important connector (for energy locks/home windows). These could have a tab on one aspect that must be pushed in whereas pulling the plug out.
• The speaker is hooked up with 3 phillips screws. Remove after which disconnect the speaker wire maintain clip and harness.

Rear speaker mounting specs:

• Speaker cut-out opening: 5-3/4″ diameter
• Speaker opening depth (to glass): 2-7/8″
• Factory speaker mounting depth: 1-7/8″
• Factory speaker thickness: 2-9/16″
• Factory speaker dimension w/grill: 6-3/4″
• Distance between screws: 6-1/2″
• Factory speaker half # (Infinity): 56038657AA

10-Disc CD changer

• Open lid and take away 4 the phillips head screws that run alongside the highest fringe of the compartment hinge. Lift compartment housing straight up an inch or so till it stops after which pull straight out to take away.
• Remove 6 phillips screws that connect changer to bracket, 3 on either side. A really brief or angled screwdriver is required for one screw on either side. Unhook wire connector on left aspect. The unit can now be slid out away from the bracket.
• The manufacturing unit assist bracket is hooked up with 4 nuts. A 10mm deep socket is required to take away them.

For WJ’s that didn’t include the manufacturing unit changer:

Mounting holes are pre-drilled for WJ’s that didn’t come from the manufacturing unit with a CD changer. The mounting studs will be ordered and put in. The studs are merely pushed into the manufacturing unit pre-drilled holes. When the nuts are tightened the alternative finish of the bolt expands within the mounting gap giving them a everlasting mounting.

The metallic mounting bracket for some motive just isn’t out there from Mopar as a separate half, it solely comes with the CD changer unit package. Sometimes these brackets will be discovered on the used market. If one can’t be situated, the mounting bolts can nonetheless be put in to permit using a custom-made bracket. It may be doable to switch a bracket that Mopar made a number of years in the past for the FM modulated CD changer system. The bracket is just a little slender however redrilling mounting holes might make it match. Mopar mounting bracket P/N 82204864

Location of manufacturing unit holes for the bracket studs

Changer bracket mounting stud and nut